In the landscape of contemporary Japanese fashion, where meticulous craftsmanship often borders on the monastic, the Tokyo-based label NICENESS offers a rare synthesis of rigor and levity. Founded in 2017 by Hirokazu Goh, the brand has built a reputation for garments that are technically demanding yet aesthetically playful. According to Takahiro Ito, one of the label’s creative leads, the goal is to bypass the "heavy" or "overly serious" atmosphere that typically accompanies high-end artisanal production.
The label’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, titled "Folklash," exemplifies this balance by drawing from a wildly eclectic range of subcultural references. The silhouettes pull from 1950s rockabilly, 1970s glam, and 1990s alternative dance culture, resulting in a look that feels both archival and improvised. This DIY spirit, reminiscent of 1990s Tokyo street style, is grounded by an obsessive attention to materiality—including the use of Kurume Kasuri, a traditional Japanese fabric requiring a complex 30-step production process.
Despite the labor-intensive techniques involved, the final products—from Himalayan sheepskin jackets to technical wool balloon coats—remain focused on the tactile pleasure of the wearer rather than the prestige of the process. By blending traditional textiles with louche, relaxed tailoring, NICENESS manages to honor heritage without becoming a museum piece. The result is a collection of "luxurious staples" that feel deeply considered but never precious.
With reporting from Highsnobiety.
Source · Highsnobiety